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Ireland 2023
May 16 Dublin

Our final full day in the Hibernian Metropolis.

I got up early and watched #2 son make himself a great breakfast. I should have asked him to make me one. I made do with cereal and toasted brown bread. I really should have bought them some supplies for the house.

Mrs. Chairman, because she is the best person, offered to drive us to the LUAS train station. LUAS is the light rail system for Dublin. I love the convenience of taking the train into town and avoiding having to find parking for the car. I love the convenience of walking out my hotel door and being in Dublin even more. I love not spending money on a hotel room, too. It is a puzzle.

On the way to the LUAS, I mentioned to Mrs. Chairman how sad I was that Mr. Chairman was having problems with the master distiller at the Whiskey Distillery. Mrs. Chairman laughed. She said she kind of liked the fact this old guy in the west wasn’t going to let these high pressure Dublin businessman push him around. A different take all together.

Our first stop in the morning was to be at the Little Museum of Dublin right next to St. Stephen’s Green. But we had plenty of time to wander around before the museum opened so off the Queen and I wandered. I needed to recreate a picture of my father at the top of Grafton Street, so we stopped there first. Then, since the Queen hadn’t eaten yet, we stopped into the Marks and Spencer department store to get some tea and something to eat. From there we wandered by some of the pubs famous for the writer’s who hung out in them, like McDaid’s and Grogan’s. In a full circle moment, we looked at the Powerscourt House. This was the townhouse owned by the same family that owned the Powerscourt Estate that had the waterfall on it. The townhouse took up a full city block and was big enough to be turned into a mall at one point.

I’d been hearing about the Little Museum of Dublin for years and was always curious about the term Little Museum. The Museum takes up one Georgian townhouse opposite St. Stephen’s Green and is full of artifacts donated by the citizens of Dublin. Each floor room is dedicated to a different theme and time period. What immediately stole my heart was the room dedicated to the U2 story. There were so many artifacts in the room I was excited to see from a full size statue of Bono as McPhisto to a trabant from the Zoo TV tour. I could probably have spent the entire day in that room. But each room was packed with memorabilia about Dublin from Dubliners. There was too much stuff to take it all in.

Part of the visit to the museum came with a tour by an absolutely crazy person in a good way. But I think all the guides were that way. They dressed in costumes from the early 20th century and talked like they came out of Dickens novel but with Irish accents. Basically they told us stories of all the artifacts in each of the rooms. They could have told a ton more stories because they only covered a small percentage of each of the artifacts in the rooms. At one point, our guide introduced us to what I thought was a gentleman cosplaying as James Joyce. Turns out, his name was Trevor White and he founded the museum.

Since we had time before the start of the 1916 Walking tour, we did the best thing you can do in Dublin. We went to Bewley’s for Tea and Scones. There is just something supremely civilized about having Scones and tea at Bewley’s. I had my doubts about this new store we were trying. But it turns out this was the original Bewley’s Oriental Cafe full of turn of the century decorations and stained glass windows. When the hostess asked if we would like the table at the window in front of the store, I couldn’t say ‘yes’ fast enough. Because I’m a pig I ordered two scones and they came with lots of butter and what seemed like fresh strawberry preserves. Blood sugar spike be dammed I ate and enjoyed all of it.
I’d prepped and been looking forward to the 1916 Walking Tour since I came across their website. I’d been looking for a different tour to take the Queen Mum that wouldn’t be just the same old sights. I went down a rabbit hole of watching movies, reading books and listening to every podcast that Lorcan Collins had recorded. Lorcan Collins was the guide behind the 1916 Walking Tour. I couldn’t wait to wander around Dublin and watch all these historic sights be brought to life and given context.

We met in the basement of the International Bar where our guide turned out not to be Lorcan Collins. This might have been a sign of disappointment to come. Our guide spent a good twenty minutes in this dark basement giving us a background on the 1916 Uprising, which was seminal in the fight for Irish Independence. But most of what I heard, I already knew. Despite the myriad photos on the walls, I don’t think this bar had any connection to the Uprising. Eventually, we were up and away, heading towards Dublin Castle. We didn’t spend too long in the castle courtyard and made our way to the main gate where the first shots of the uprising occurred. I thought we would spend a few minutes talking about James Connolly since there is a Connolly room in the castle where he was nursed back to health before his execution. Nope. The focus of the talk was the battle at the main gate. We then went around the corner to a spot where three IRA men were tortured to death by the IRA. Too bad only two of the men were actually members of the IRA. The third man was just an innocent victim who was rounded up with the other two.

That talk went on for a long time in a not particularly interesting area of the castle. A lot of the members of the tour started to sit. I developed pains in my thigh. I have nerve damage in there and it starts to sing to me if I remain idle upright for too long. Finally, we moved on. Our guide led us to Eustace Street where we stopped outside the Meeting House of Friends. This would be my fourth time on this trip I admired the plaque dedicated to Frederick Douglass. I heard again that this used to be the Eagle Tavern where the United Irishman met for the first time in advance of the 1798 Rebellion. The most entertaining bit about this stop was the crazed older gentleman screaming at us to get out of his way as he plowed down the sidewalk. He was nicely dressed in a suit so I don’t think he was crazy, just didn’t care for us tourists.

Eustace streets is just two streets over from Crow Street where Michael Collins had his hide out and ran the operations to spy on the British during the War of Independence. It would have been cool to walk over there and talk about that. We were not. Instead, the tour walked along the Liffey all the way to the General Post Office.

I will grant you the General Post Office was the key location in the Uprising. One of the founding documents, The proclamation of the Irish Republic was read outside the building by Patrick Pearse. Some of the fiercest fighting occurred at this building as the British Forces tried to drive the rebellions out. But just before you get to the GPO, you can go by Moore Street where a last desperate charge was made by the men trying to escape. There is an alley where The O’Rahilly lost his life leading the charge. Sure would have been nice to get some information about that street.

Our tour went right to the statue of Big Jim Larkin and stopped to talk. Big Jim sits in the middle of O’Connell Street between the GPO and what was once Cleary’s department store. Larkin was responsible for helping start the Irish Transport and General Workers Union. He was a big part of the 1913 Lockout but didn’t have much to do with the 1916 Uprising. His statue was positioned near where he gave a big speech on a Sunday on August 31 1913 which ended with an assault by police. One of the Bloody Sundays for which Ireland is known. Our guide gave another long dissertation about the GPO. He told us to take note of the bullet holes still in the columns outside the GPO. He brought our attention to the Cuchulain statue in the window of the GPO.

The best story he told concerned the building next door to the GPO which used to be a hotel owned by one of the wealthiest men in Dublin, Michael Martin Murphy. Murphy was the man who called for the lockout and barred workers from coming to work in order to break up Larkin’s union. During the uprising, James Connelly dispatched some his men to leave the GPO and go over to the hotel and run the new Tricolor flag, symbol of the Irish State, atop the hotel. The lads with the flag were confused by the order thinking they should fly the flag over the GPO but did as they were told. The Irish Tricolor flag flew over Murphy’s hotel. The soldiers also told the guest to get out of the hotel. When the British Frigate came up the Liffey to shell the soldiers, they mistook the hotel for the GPO because of the flag and shelled the hotel first.

I took a lot of pictures while the guide spoke. He didn’t really cover any new ground for me. I pondered what I was supposed to do? Should I have remained ignorant of the events and characters around the 1916 Uprising and had the tour guide teach me what I needed to know or should I have done what I had done and been bored by the tour I looked forward to taking. In retrospect, I hoped the tour guide would have more information than I and supplement the knowledge I already had.

For the first time ever, after the tour, I wandered into the GPO. It is a very nice post office. And there was a gift shop.

The Queen and I parted ways with a plan to meet up at our LUAS stop on Stephen’s Green. No one wants to be around me when I’m on a picture hunt. I stopped by another famed literary Pub called the Palace Bar on Fleet Street. I could have saved myself a lot of trouble because it was right next door to the old Bewley’s Hotel which I had taken pictures of on my first day in Dublin. I needed a picture of Molly Malone in the sunlight since I had only photographed on the night time walk. On the way there I passed a group of about thirty elementary school kids. They might have been from France. I missed my turn to the statue and had to backtrack. I really shouldn’t have missed the turn. By the time I arrived at Molly Malone she was surrounded by all the French Elementary School kids. They all stood on the platform. Many of them rubbed her boobs for luck. They also sang the Molly Malone song. I don’t think they were ever going to leave. Other sight seers started to show up, enthralled by all these kids singing about Molly which only spurred the kids to sing the song again. I was trapped in a nightmare. Finally, the school chaperones removed the human blockade from the statue. I jumped in quickly to take my pictures but so did others. Pictures with hands on boobs had to be taken. I eventually got a clear space to take a photo after asking a couple of people to move back for just a second.

I don’t know where I heard about the monkeys playing pool on the base of one of the pillars on the National Library, but I knew I needed to see them now that I knew about them. The National Library used to be a gentleman’s club and the monkeys were part of the decoration. I figured I had just enough time to pop over and find them. I could also get a look inside the library which looked beautiful.

I approached the guard at the desk and asked how could I get into the library. He said unless I was doing research and had a pass, I could not enter the library. Not even for a quick peak? No. After that lovely exchange my next question was even better. I asked him where could I find the monkeys playing pool on the base of the pillars? The guard gave the look you give crazy people. He had never heard of such a thing and thought I was pulling his leg. I thanked him and left. I turned around outside because my bladder called and I hoped the library might have a bathroom. I went back in and asked my favorite guard about a toilet and he gave me directions. He also in the interim to me leaving and coming back had asked about the mythical monkeys. Turns out they weren’t a myth. They were to be found just down the street on another building. Huzzah.

I went down the street and there the monkeys were just as advertised. I took many pictures. But it was hard to capture the oddity of them. By this time, I was out of time, but I still had one more stop to make. I needed to go to Sheridan’s Cheesemonger shop. Why wouldn’t you go to a Cheesemonger?

I will admit I am not much of a cheese aficionado. My knowledge runs the gamut from sharp cheddar to parmesan from Kraft. So, I when I entered the store and approached the counter, I asked the nice man if he wouldn’t mind helping me select a few nice cheeses to bring home to the Chairman’s house. There were two gentleman in front of me but they were already being helped when the counter man asked me what I wanted. The counter man and I went to the display case and picked out a couple of cheeses including a nice Brie for The Queen who also has a side hustle as the Queen of Brie. I kind of knew what we had picked out but I thought maybe we should write the names of the cheeses on the packages so if I had managed to find one the Chairman and his wife liked, they would know what the cheese was rather than relying on my faulty memory. I asked the counterman to put the names of the cheeses on the packages. When I said this the man who was in front of me turned and said something to the effect of “you don’t know the types of the cheeses you bought”. I guess you have to find a cheese snob in a cheese monger shop. But I didn’t care. I confessed my ignorance. The goal was nice cheese for my hosts. Screw the cheese snob.

I thought this lovely shop was a one off. Nope. Sheridan’s Cheese Mongers are all over Ireland. They started in Galway and this store on St. Anne’s Street was their third.

I was a few minutes late to the LUAS stop and meeting the queen. I also saw a train departing just as I walked up. I was in no mood to chase it. The next one arrived in about five minutes. Mrs. Chairman met us at the station. When I mentioned I thought about going to St. Enda’s School, which Patrick Pearse had founded, she offered to drive me over. I declined. But she did detour over to the Russian embassy nearby to show us the street painted in Ukrainian colors in front of the Russian Embassy. Ukrainian flags flew all around the building.

Because Mrs. Chairman is one of the nicest people you will ever meet, while the Queen and I were in town, Mrs. Chairman had taken the Queen Mum out for a tour of the local area which included a trip to Mrs. Chairman’s swimming spot on the coast.

Before dinner, I did some drone flights over the house which made me a big hit with son #2. I think this was the first time he showed any interest in my existence. Mrs. Chairman came out and we took some selfies. I tried to get Mr. Chairman out as well but he was in the middle of a call.

We had a lovely dinner. The chairman brought out some wine from his wine cellar. Turns out his love and knowledge of wine came from a summer spent in France where he worked at a restaurant. He has hundreds of bottles upstairs in his wine closet. Like all good Irish hosts, he kept pouring. Mrs. Chairman had brought back some French baguettes with her. Sadly, Son #2 had spotted them before he could be warned off and made a sandwich with them. I pretty much cleaned off rest with generous portions of Kerrygold butter. That could have been my main meal.

We had a nice political discussion after dinner. The Queen Mum had the support of the Chairman as we discussed getting the best people for jobs in government, even if they had conflicts of interest.

Tomorrow, plane travel. I am pre-sad.
As a matter of fact, my anger does keep me warm

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Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 01-16-2023, 07:26 AM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Drunk Monk - 01-16-2023, 09:27 AM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 01-16-2023, 09:55 AM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Dr. Ivor Yeti - 01-16-2023, 11:13 PM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 01-17-2023, 06:17 AM
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RE: Ireland 2023 - by Dr. Ivor Yeti - 01-19-2023, 10:12 PM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 01-25-2023, 02:38 PM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 02-01-2023, 04:21 PM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 02-09-2023, 03:28 PM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Drunk Monk - 02-09-2023, 04:11 PM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 02-09-2023, 04:24 PM
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RE: Ireland 2023 - by Dr. Ivor Yeti - 04-17-2023, 03:36 PM
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RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 04-18-2023, 05:45 AM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Drunk Monk - 04-18-2023, 07:25 AM
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RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 05-12-2023, 10:44 PM
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RE: Ireland 2023 - by Drunk Monk - 05-13-2023, 07:38 AM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 05-14-2023, 11:01 PM
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RE: Ireland 2023 - by Drunk Monk - 05-16-2023, 07:56 AM
RE: Ireland 2023 - by Greg - 05-16-2023, 09:57 AM
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